There was plenty of traditional black eye paint throughout the month, but it was the acid-bright strokes and dashes of color that are most seared into our memory. At Proenza Schouler, saturated washes of electric fuchsia and tangerine on the lids broke the mold, while at Versace and Chloé, bright smudges of color were the linchpin of every look. Perhaps the most extreme instance was Weinsanto, where the most blinding shade of hot pink was saturated on the eyes, cheeks, or center of the lips.
High-Gloss Pouts
Photo: Isamaya Ffrench
Giambattista Valli
Lip gloss continues to be laid on thick and unapologetically in Y2K fashion. To top off the fully realized disco glam looks at Fendi, there were high-gloss nude and bold red pouts. At Blumarine, it wasn’t just the lips, but the lids too that received slicks of transparent MAC Lipglass to catch the light and reflect the surrounding gleam. Then at Giambattista Valli, makeup artist Isamaya Ffrench played up dewy complexions with glossy lips in shades of coral and dark berry, while at Nina Ricci models sported lacquered pouts that leaned more au naturel.
’90s Center Parts
Call it the Gen Z effect—the obsession with middle parts continues. From the lived-in bobs at Chanel to the myriad of poker-straight partings at Prada, the universal appeal of a sleek, symmetrical center part was continuously on display. It does, after all, lend itself to all lengths and textures. Not to mention the style’s eternal French girl appeal (see: the parade of interpretations at Hermès).
3D Embellishments
Whether by way of painterly strokes of pigment or decorative decals, embellishment catapulted otherwise bare complexions to a different dimension. Echoing the illustrated beadwork on the clothes at Rodarte, makeup artist James Kaliardos freehanded intricate fine art designs around select model gazes to trippy, living canvas effect, while at Kenneth Ize, lids, noses, and elongated talons were dripping in metallic gold paint in a surrealist spirit. Taking things to another dimension, 3D makeup looks inspired awe at Luar, where pearl decals accented razor-sharp cat eyes, and Etro, with a constellation of metallic silver gems decorating the under eyes. Finally, there were the heart-stopping sequined lips at Acne, which took texture and shine to the next level.
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